Day 6 - Kirsehir to Avanos

I guess we had been looking forward to this day ever since we got our hands on our route cards. The shortest day with only 90kms and the opportunity to visit the famed fairy chimney rock formations of which the region is so famous. Stephanie Dalli's excitement was so evident that morning, as today's location was the highlight of her trip!

As what has now become a mantra, Alan stresses the importance of timings. I am about six minutes behind time. Although Alan always tells me he is confident that I will make up the time, it is extra pressure on me, and I must admit it does slightly mar the fun. Briefing over, off we go. Paul decides to join us on the ride and we set off together. Although the road is relatively flat, the tarmac grip is incredible and makes it feel as if we are cycling at a constant incline.

Turkish Tarmac!

Today we only have one checkpoint but as always it is a welcome break, especially when Big Ed is there to welcome us with his beaming smile and big hug, or Carolyn and Steph's cheeky grins, fooling around to cheer us up. I am now bored of the staple food that is being provided but obviously it is the best food to keep us going. I know for a fact that I will not look at Nutella, Peanut Butter and Bananas for a very long time after this adventure.

Yet again we get a police escort. Driving slowly behind us, ensuring our safety, never do they show any hint of boredom. Always ready to give us an encouraging smile, I am sure that they would rather do something more riveting even though the views are generally amazing. I am so touched when one of the policemen offer me an apple. I politely refuse, as I admit I am not to adept at eating and cycling, and keep cycling, focusing at keeping my pace. Shortly after the police car drives close to me, and the policeman offers me the same apple but this time neatly cut into bite size pieces, which he hands over to me bit by bit. I am so touched by this show of friendship that tears well in my eyes. I am not normally one who easily shows emotions but Lifecycle is changing that!.

Finally we are to enjoy a good downhill. The tarmac is perfect. The grip is just right for us to just go down as fast as possible, reaching speeds of 65kms/hour. Tony and Robert are well ahead of me, trying to catchup with them I sense there's something wrong. I stop and realise I have a flat tyre. The policemen promptly stop and motion me to get into the car. I obviously refuse and start changing the tyre. Robert, who has realised that I am not behind him stops and seeing the stationary police car, fears the worst and cycles back up to me at record speed. The relief on his face is so visible when he sees me and quickly moves me away from the bike and in a flash repairs the flat.

Rob flatly states that he will cycle with me, as he does not want to leave me alone. He is still recovering from the fright of seeing my bike on the floor, the policement standing next to it and me nowhere to be seen. Picking up a good pace we almost race off. We are in good time, and should make up for the lost time in the previous days. But our good spirits are soon deflated when I get an other flat tyre. Robert repairs its and we set up but get another one in the span of ten minutes. I am very upset as we are losing precious time. Alan drives up and stops the car. He and Robert are trying to change it as quickly as possible in order to save time. Shirley as always tries to encourage Robert to keep on cycling, advising him that he too is losing time even though it is not his puncture.

Soon we start seeing signs directing us to Avanos, a town set on the banks of f the Kizilirmak, the Red River, which gets its name from the clay that it deposits. This clay has provided Avanos with pottery for centuries and the town is still dominated by this industry despite the inroads that tourism has made in the area.

Rob and I literally fly towards our accomodation, picking up great speeds. I arrive there in a very foul mood. I have lost precious time because of flat tyres, and I know that I only get five minutes a day extra for flats – not exactly enough when you consider I had three in a span of fifteen minutes. I just dump the bike in the first empty space and then go in a corner to lick my wounds. All the effort has made my ankle swell considerably and is extremely painful to walk on. Dr. Steph, giving me anti-inflammatories and Carolyn doing physio, advise me not to go on the sightseeing tour but to rest my leg as much as possible.

Accomodation in Avanos

As has become the norm, we are visited by the Mayor of Avanos, who shows a great deal of interest in our endeavours. Alan explains, with Soner translating, the efforts that the Lifecycle team have put in over the years, efforts which leave a considerable impression on the Mayor and his delegation, who wish us Güle Güle - safe journey, with a smile.

Formalities done, I try to make the most of the sunshine and hang out my washing to dry - a welcome change to our attempts of drying our clothes in musty gyms. As I am out hanging my clothes, Alan tells me that I have gained an hour from my efforts today. I feel much better. It is only day six and a lot can happen in the coming five days. I need to relax and I should grab the opportunity to wind down and relax a bit. Having our accommodation in Avanos we are conveniently located within the triangle that delineates the roads connecting to the best sites in Cappadocia - the fairy chimneys and the rock cut churches in Goreme.

The great expanses of eroded, carved and shaped volcanic phallic-like symbols combined with the still dryness and omnipresent dust give an impression of barrenness. However this land is exceedingly fertile thanks to the volcanic tuff that forms the land. The weir formation of soft dusting rock have been shaped over the millennia surviving invading armies and indigenous people who have done their best to exploit the land's potential. What is amazing is that a feeling of time standing still and a sense of continuity is felt simply by looking at the still inhabited rock caves. Tourism has done its bit and a number of stalls selling local ceramics and souvenirs greet the tourists that flock the area.

As my ankle is swollen and is painful with every step I take, I miss out on the walkabout around the chimneys. Instead I sit down in the shade, sipping an ice cold Coca Cola with Space, Robert, Kola and Steph. From there, we move on to Goreme. Is an open air museum and is famous for having the few remaining Cappadocian settlements who rock cut houses and fair chimneys are still in habited. Unfortunately the village has not been spared from tourist development, which does spoil its character, with it's main street given over entirely to providing the tourist with souvenir shops, internet cafes, carpet shops and the always present tourist shops.

Once again, I find a comfortable place to sit on sofas and sip chai. This time I am joined by Willie, Hulya, Robert and Nigel. Sitting down and relaxing feels surreal. It has been such a long time since I had the luxury to stop for a moment and enjoy some relaxed banter. I almost feel guilty.

I said, "almost feel guilty, not guilty!"

This evening, even the Kitchen team take a well deserved rest, and after physiotherapy and Mass we all head towards the town centre where we are to have dinner which includes belly dancing and whirling dervishes. The practice of Sufi whirling is a twirling mediation that originated amongst the Turkish Sufis and which is still practiced by the Dervishes of the Mevlevi order. The ritual's aim is for the dervishes to try to desert their nefs', egos or personal, bad, desires by listening to their master and Sufi music, thinking about God. Although the food was that which is generally expected from a tourist trap and which left most of us trying to find the food on the plate, the whirling dervishes were the highlight of the evening!

Around 1030pm I limp back to the accommodation. I make sure my bike is ready for tomorrow and then set off to find a room, with a bathroom, far away from the madding snoring crowd. We don't' know what to expect tomorrow as the route hasn't been planned but if Lifecycle lives up to its reputation it will definitely not be an easy day!

All photos, unless otherwise stated, courtesy of Maria Vella-Galea