Day 11 - Homs to Damascus

I always had serious doubts as to whether I would make it to the last day and final checkpoint on the bike and not in the back of a van but here I was in Homs, packing my bags and checking out my bicycle for the last time to make sure it is ready for the last 150kilometres of this challenge.

Final briefing from Alan, blessing from Fr. Pierre and pep talk from Carolyn and Paul before we leave en masse towards Damascus. Ian is feeling better today so he decides to cycle, whilst Lenny is not feeling at all good but still he starts off with us. The road today promises to be pretty straight forward, with some good down hills towards the end, although there is quite a long stretch of desert which will make it tougher in terms of heat intensity.

Our first checkpoint is in the middle of a desert. An open space where a street hawker set-up shop selling luke warm drinks. Further up a small shack provides a bit of privacy for the brave to make use of the hole found inside. Cold water is running out fast, as one by one parched cyclists descend on the backup team like vultures attacking their prey. The backup team promise us they will be driving along the way to provide us with a constant supply of cold water as much as possible.

Somewhere in between Checkpoint 1 and 2 we cycle past a Lifecycle van only to see a commotion of sorts. Slowing down see Ray, our photographer, sitting on the ground, broken camera by his side, and Stephanie holding a bag of ice on his head. Concerned we slow down but Mario urges us to continue. Half-heartedly we continue, hoping for the best but we can't help but wonder what happened. It later transpired that Willie, accidentally cycled straight into Ray, knocking him down on the ground, breaking his camera and injuring his head in the process.

The impact

With Ray in our thoughts we also have to battle the unbearable and stifling heat. Continuing on our route, the backup follow us in their vehicles, providing us with cold water as we cycle through the never ending desert route. Their presence is a godsend as it is not just a matter of providing us with cold water, but also providing us with support and encouragement to face the final few kilometres.

The saying goes “it never rains but it pours”.At the second checkpoint we are hit by another drama. Clocking in the second checkpoint, just beside a typical Syrian restaurant we find a very worried Edward surrounded by very formal looking Syrians who seem to be questioning him about something. Mario soon joins in the discussion. We find out through Carolyn, that some pictures, taken by her with Edward's camera included a red unmarked pick-up truck in the back ground. The soldiers instructed Edward to wait a couple of minutes until they showed the photo to their commanding officer. In the meantime we take the opportunity to have lunch and try to wait for the outcome of this interrogation. What is clear is that if Edward is accused of spying, this could have serious repercussions especially in a country whose conventions are not similar to those we are used. to. Mario, Hulya and Edward are still with the police when it is time for us to leave. Not wanting to leave without knowing what is happening we are urged to continue, with Mario reassuring us that we will get the necessary backup we need till the situation is solved. In the meantime we also learn that Lenny had to stop and was continuing part of the journey in an ambulance the gastric problems weakening him so much that he could barely stand up. Again more upsetting news about our friends. There was not much we could do except do our best to reach Damascus safely hoping that all our friends would be there waiting for us.

Because Mario is caught up trying to avoid Edward going to jail, we do not have water supplies readily available and this part of the road is just desert so it is not a case of stopping in one of the shacks we were encountering in the previous roads and buying water. Cycling in the relentless sun, we had to make sure that our water supplies lasted until the third checkpoint, but with temperatures reaching 46 degrees, controlling our thirst a major task. Reaching the third checkpoint, there was no need to ask for water as it was handed to us automatically, our first question was to ask about Edward. Alan had no news except that he was being taken to a military camp and being held there. Mario was sent away, leaving Edward at the mercy of the Syrian authorities. Calls were being made to the Maltese consul but such incidents took time to be dealt with. Alan reassured us that all that was possible was being made to get Edward back into our fold and like Mario before him urged us to continue cycling. Wetting my bandanna with ice cold water, I leave the checkpoint only to realise shortly after that I left my helmet behind. Fully aware of the chaotic driving I would be experiencing in Damascus, I still had no intention of turning back especially since I was enjoying a nice steep downhill. I just prayed for the best. Reaching speeds of 60kms per hour, the distance to Damascus kept on reducing. It is only at this point that I am actually thinking there is a possibility of me completing Lifecycle successfully. The last ten kilometres were the longest of the whole trip. I was on the look out for the final checkpoint signs whilst trying to survive the chaotic driving on the dusty and filthy roads.

Reaching the final checkpoint, I am clocked in by Soner and greeted with large cheers from the cyclists who had already arrived and the rest of the back up team. Poignantly, Cliff's poster was there, welcoming us to the final chapter of this challenge. Exhausted, I am quickly taken into an air-conditioned car to cool down, protected from the strong afternoon sun. Gulping down a bottle of one litre bottle,I don't even know where I left my bike but I don't really care. I am happy not to see my bike for a while after this.

Exhausted but happy

Robert and Nicholas arrive shortly after me, and that is when I start phoning my loved ones and texting my friends and colleagues advising them that I have successfully completed Lifecycle. I am still in a daze as the remaining cyclists clock in.

Texting home

There is still no news of Edward, and that marred the fun as we were all hoping that he would be there to cheer us as we reached Damascus. This was not to be though. Negotiations for his release were still taking place.

We still have the final bit to cycle to our accommodation. All vehicles having reached the final checkpoint we are escorted into Damascus. With the backup team blaring their car's horns in triumphant mode, and cyclists pummelling the air with clenched fists we slowly cycle into the busy streets of Damascus' city centre. Our triumphant entry is not a common occurrence and we are greeting with a number of curious and bemused looks. We don't care. We are happy to have completed this adventure.

The fat lady has indeed stopped singing!

Photos courtesy of Ray Pace & Stephanie Caruana