Day 7 - Avanos to Kozan

The route card only gave directions for the first 15.5kms, showing us the way out of Avanos and Urgup. The rest would be announced later. We were warned that the total day distance would be around 240km so it would be a very challenging day. Alan advises us to watch out for the Lifecycle Route signs since it was not possible to trace the route during the pre-visit. Alan explains that there were two route choices, the one chosen during the pre-visit was dangerous and definitely not an option so the other route had to be taken but due to time constraints it was not possible to trace it on a route card. I am still upset about the time lost in the previous day due to the multitude of punctures, but there is no use crying over split milk. I just have to do my best to keep up the rhythm and increase my pace.

As we leave the accommodation we head towards Goreme taking the highway. In the distance we could see numerous hot air balloons manoeuvring their way, through the early morning mist, over the treetops and fairy chimneys. I felt a pang of jealousy. The people enjoying this scenic flight were on holiday relaxing. Focusing on the straight road ahead we arrive in Goreme. In the early hours of the morning it seemed less chaotic than it was in the afternoon the day before.

Early in the day, with our leg muscles barely warmed up we are faced with a killer winding road that takes us up to Urgup. The inclines, registered on my GPS, go up to 18%. I feel my leg muscles working on overdrive, almost bursting with the sheer exertion. In front of me Nigel is asking, in a loud voice, why is he doing this. I guess most of us had that feeling as we toil up the long, winding road.

My ankle starts to bother me from the start of the day. The undulating roads are not helping at all. Following the signs, our eyes open to make sure we don't miss any, my ankle becomes increasingly swollen, ever pedal movement pure torture. I do not want to stop and waste time but I cannot keep on going. Robert phones Steph and asks her to come and check my ankle. In the meantime, he gently removes my shoe and starts massaging my ankle which has become the size of a tennis ball. I cannot put any weight on it, so I cannot really do much. Edward soon drives up, and Carolyn puts on deep freeze and bandages it. Steph is in another car further in front so we have to catch up with her. The boys, who have stayed with me so far, reluctantly leave, with Robert and Tony staying behind to ensure that I don't cycle alone.

Slowly we progress. Each pedal stroke I take is taking me closer to Steph and hopefully some painkillers. The journey, although not long, seems interminable and when finally we catchup with them, I am in tears. Steph explains that my tendons are badly swollen due to the technique I am using to try to avoid the pain in my knees. I forget my aversion to needles and I beg her to give me a painkiller so that I can proceed. She is reluctant, but I remind her that she is a Lifecyclist so she should know how important it is for me to continue. She gives in but warns me that if the inflammation gets worse she will make me stop, without any ifs or buts. My heart sinks as I know this will be the case. I know it is for my own good, as damaging the tendons could mean me giving up horse riding and cycling in future.

Whilst Steph is preparing to give me the painkiller, Space is hovering around. Full of concern towards my wellbeing, he is in the way and is unceremoniously turned away by Steph who asks him to give us some privacy as she gives me a jab in my bottom. I am very upset about it all and I silently pray that this will work and the pain won't increase forcing me to stop short of my target, after months of preparation and sacrifice.

Tony, Robert and I set off again. They are determined not to leave me on my own, especially now that I am at my lowest ebb. The road ahead is tougher than what we have experienced so far. A long, never ending, gravelly, off-road track. A car passes by at full speed ahead, causing gravel to spray all over the place, hitting Robert's arm in the process. A small gash but nonetheless painful and irritating. We keep on going and catchup with Lenny, Luke, Nigel, Nicholas and Ian. We group up, giving moral support to each other especially when we have to tackle a long and cruel hill. To this day I don't know how I managed to keep with the guys, not giving up irrespective of the pain, which although had subsided was still there nagging me all the time. I guess it is the adrenaline working on overdrive.

Finally reaching the top of the hill, we find a treacherous downhill path, which nearly sees Nicholas flying off the road and down the hill. Nonetheless we all enjoy a bit of respite from the cruel hills. Reaching a clearing we sense that something is wrong. We seem to have reached a dead end. An old man suddenly appears from nowhere, shouting, motioning with his hand as though he was shooting at something. Lenny, quickly nicknames him the Hobbit, who seems to take a liking to Nigel. Irrespective of the language barrier they seem to reach an understanding. It is a bit of comic relief for us, but we realise that things are not right. There aren't any signs in sight. The last one we saw indicated the direction we took but the road seems to lead to nowhere. None of us want this to be true as it would mean having to go back up the downhill we so happily flew down.

Nicholas suggests we phone the backup team but we realise that none of us have mobile reception. We are practically cut off from everyone. Robert suggests that we start heading back, the backup van was close by and seeing that they too were following the signs we were follwoing we would be able to meet up with them and get directions.

Following Robert's suggestion we start cycling back, to our relief we see Mario and his team driving by. We all realise that we are all lost, and that Simon and Julian are still somewhere behind us. Frustration starts to set in. It is already getting late and we still have another 80 kilometres to cycle. Perhaps I am the only one that silently, welcomes this break as my ankle is still swollen and the pain killer's effect is slightly waning. I don't know if I can go much further if the pain increases and I know that if it does Steph will definitely make me stop.

In the meantime we are joined by Edward, Carolyn and Steph who immediately proceed to feed us, giving us some fresh cheese and bread they bought on the way. What a treat! Such a refreshing change from bananas and flapjacks. Like piranhas on a feeding frenzy we devoured the sandwiches, leaving only a few crumbs as evidence of their existence.

In the meantime, Mario is attempting to reach Alan, but network coverage is unavailable. Seeing that we cannot do much he decides to take us up to a location where there is network coverage. It is obvious that the signs have been tampered with and since we have no route card showing the way we are all in the same situation – LOST!

Mario decides to start moving us to a better location, one where hopefully we can get network coverage. The situation is tense. Tired cyclists not knowing what will happen. Concerned back up team entrusted with our safety. Mario doesn't have much options. He deposits us on a mountain road, which is the only possible road and heads back to where the bikes were left with Carolyn, Steph, Edward and Space. The latter being responsible to pack the bikes in the other van.

In the meantime, as is expected in mountainous areas, as night starts to fall the temperature lowers. In an attempt to keep warm, all huddle together, keeping in mind that cycling the rest of the kilometres is a posisblilty. During this time we work on a plan of action to ensure that our participation is not cut short because of this adventure. A few cyclists start preparing a not so friendly speech to deliver to Alan whilst others try to keep sprits up by saying jokes and singing songs. We don't know what is going to happen but we all know that we are in for a long night.

As we grow colder, the more our enthusiasm to keep on cycling wanes. Pitch black darkness envelopes us as we wait for the rest of the backup team. Although we are no longer in a valley, we have little signal and although we managed to get through to Shirley the line drops almost immediately, never to be picked up again. I don't know for how long we waited for Mario and Edward to reach us but it felt like forever. By that time the effect of the painkillers had gone completely. For the very first time since this adventure started I actually contemplated of giving up. I had no energy left to cycle more. I was exhausted, cold and hungry.

Freezing up on the mountain

Mario, having managed to get through to Alan, informs us that we are to cycle down the mountain road to where Alan is waiting for us. It seems that we were actually quite close to the final checkpoint. We all resist to these instructions but in reality there is not much we can do. There is no room in the vans to takes us and the bikes and the truck, carrying our luggages, is already miles away in our accommodation It will take much longer if we had to wait for it.

Slowly, we put back our helmets on and start cycling down, Mario driving in front and leading the way whilst Edward, at the back lights up the road with the van's headlamps. Going downhill was not a problem but we soon find another uphill. Gingerly I pedal, each movement giving me spasms of pain in my ankle. I feebly attempt to complain about cycling in these conditions, after having spent hours in the cold, but in reality there is not much we can do. Mario urges me to get into the van. I refuse. First of all I am part of a team and I am not going to go into the van whilst my team mates are walking up the hill and secondly I don't want to risk being kicked off the trip because I stopped cycling. Space rushes next to me, almost begging to take my bike up the hill, stubbornly I proceed. I barely take two steps when I hear a stern voice from behind - “Maria, stop being stupid and get into the van NOW!” Steph's stern voice catches me unaware, and automatically and meekly, I give my bike to Space and get into the van.

I burst out crying. Partly due to exhaustion, partly due to pain and partly due to the stress of the whole day. Mario reassures me that I won't be forced to stop. The circumstances were beyond everyone's control and now the focus is to get everyone safely to the accommodation. Shortly after we catch up with Alan and Shirley. The bikes are removed from the vans once again to be organised in a better manner and stored in such away that we all fit in the vans. I remain in the van, now half asleep having taken an anti-inflammatory pill to ease off the inflammation in my ankle. I hear a commotion outside. It seems that Space is concerned with the safety of a watermelon that has been on the journey with us whilst Mario, quite rightly so, is interested in getting everyone out of that area. But deep down, it did offer some comic relief to all.

Space and the infamous watermelon!

Again I fall asleep so I am not fully aware of what happened. All I know is that we are all squashed, like sardines, in the vans and start heading home. On the way Alan's van has a flat tyre, and although Robert does his utmost to change the wheel the bolts are so tightly screwed that no one is able to unscrew them leaving Alan and Shirley to wait for the guys from the rental company to fetch them.

At 2am, or thereabouts we get to the accommodation where we find Therese, Jennifer and Steph awake, waiting for us. The rest of the cyclists are fast asleep. I am amazed at Therese's team's capacity to provide us with a warm meal even in the middle of the night.

I quickly make a phone call home after finding a multitude of messages from a concerned mum and Conrad. It is not like me not to answer any message so their concern is obvious. Although I play down the day's events to my mum, I break down when I speak to Conrad. An accumulation of all the stress and fatigue and the thought of having another four days of intense cycling combined with my injuries.

Our instructions are to wake up at 7am. We will still be cycling the planned route the day after even if we wouldn't have had a good night's sleep. I don't stop to think about it much, all I am thinking about is the inflatable mattress that I have put in a quiet corner underneath the gymnasium's stairs, falling asleep as soon as I hit my head on the pillow.

Day 6 - Kirsehir to Avanos

I guess we had been looking forward to this day ever since we got our hands on our route cards. The shortest day with only 90kms and the opportunity to visit the famed fairy chimney rock formations of which the region is so famous. Stephanie Dalli's excitement was so evident that morning, as today's location was the highlight of her trip!

As what has now become a mantra, Alan stresses the importance of timings. I am about six minutes behind time. Although Alan always tells me he is confident that I will make up the time, it is extra pressure on me, and I must admit it does slightly mar the fun. Briefing over, off we go. Paul decides to join us on the ride and we set off together. Although the road is relatively flat, the tarmac grip is incredible and makes it feel as if we are cycling at a constant incline.

Turkish Tarmac!

Today we only have one checkpoint but as always it is a welcome break, especially when Big Ed is there to welcome us with his beaming smile and big hug, or Carolyn and Steph's cheeky grins, fooling around to cheer us up. I am now bored of the staple food that is being provided but obviously it is the best food to keep us going. I know for a fact that I will not look at Nutella, Peanut Butter and Bananas for a very long time after this adventure.

Yet again we get a police escort. Driving slowly behind us, ensuring our safety, never do they show any hint of boredom. Always ready to give us an encouraging smile, I am sure that they would rather do something more riveting even though the views are generally amazing. I am so touched when one of the policemen offer me an apple. I politely refuse, as I admit I am not to adept at eating and cycling, and keep cycling, focusing at keeping my pace. Shortly after the police car drives close to me, and the policeman offers me the same apple but this time neatly cut into bite size pieces, which he hands over to me bit by bit. I am so touched by this show of friendship that tears well in my eyes. I am not normally one who easily shows emotions but Lifecycle is changing that!.

Finally we are to enjoy a good downhill. The tarmac is perfect. The grip is just right for us to just go down as fast as possible, reaching speeds of 65kms/hour. Tony and Robert are well ahead of me, trying to catchup with them I sense there's something wrong. I stop and realise I have a flat tyre. The policemen promptly stop and motion me to get into the car. I obviously refuse and start changing the tyre. Robert, who has realised that I am not behind him stops and seeing the stationary police car, fears the worst and cycles back up to me at record speed. The relief on his face is so visible when he sees me and quickly moves me away from the bike and in a flash repairs the flat.

Rob flatly states that he will cycle with me, as he does not want to leave me alone. He is still recovering from the fright of seeing my bike on the floor, the policement standing next to it and me nowhere to be seen. Picking up a good pace we almost race off. We are in good time, and should make up for the lost time in the previous days. But our good spirits are soon deflated when I get an other flat tyre. Robert repairs its and we set up but get another one in the span of ten minutes. I am very upset as we are losing precious time. Alan drives up and stops the car. He and Robert are trying to change it as quickly as possible in order to save time. Shirley as always tries to encourage Robert to keep on cycling, advising him that he too is losing time even though it is not his puncture.

Soon we start seeing signs directing us to Avanos, a town set on the banks of f the Kizilirmak, the Red River, which gets its name from the clay that it deposits. This clay has provided Avanos with pottery for centuries and the town is still dominated by this industry despite the inroads that tourism has made in the area.

Rob and I literally fly towards our accomodation, picking up great speeds. I arrive there in a very foul mood. I have lost precious time because of flat tyres, and I know that I only get five minutes a day extra for flats – not exactly enough when you consider I had three in a span of fifteen minutes. I just dump the bike in the first empty space and then go in a corner to lick my wounds. All the effort has made my ankle swell considerably and is extremely painful to walk on. Dr. Steph, giving me anti-inflammatories and Carolyn doing physio, advise me not to go on the sightseeing tour but to rest my leg as much as possible.

Accomodation in Avanos

As has become the norm, we are visited by the Mayor of Avanos, who shows a great deal of interest in our endeavours. Alan explains, with Soner translating, the efforts that the Lifecycle team have put in over the years, efforts which leave a considerable impression on the Mayor and his delegation, who wish us Güle Güle - safe journey, with a smile.

Formalities done, I try to make the most of the sunshine and hang out my washing to dry - a welcome change to our attempts of drying our clothes in musty gyms. As I am out hanging my clothes, Alan tells me that I have gained an hour from my efforts today. I feel much better. It is only day six and a lot can happen in the coming five days. I need to relax and I should grab the opportunity to wind down and relax a bit. Having our accommodation in Avanos we are conveniently located within the triangle that delineates the roads connecting to the best sites in Cappadocia - the fairy chimneys and the rock cut churches in Goreme.

The great expanses of eroded, carved and shaped volcanic phallic-like symbols combined with the still dryness and omnipresent dust give an impression of barrenness. However this land is exceedingly fertile thanks to the volcanic tuff that forms the land. The weir formation of soft dusting rock have been shaped over the millennia surviving invading armies and indigenous people who have done their best to exploit the land's potential. What is amazing is that a feeling of time standing still and a sense of continuity is felt simply by looking at the still inhabited rock caves. Tourism has done its bit and a number of stalls selling local ceramics and souvenirs greet the tourists that flock the area.

As my ankle is swollen and is painful with every step I take, I miss out on the walkabout around the chimneys. Instead I sit down in the shade, sipping an ice cold Coca Cola with Space, Robert, Kola and Steph. From there, we move on to Goreme. Is an open air museum and is famous for having the few remaining Cappadocian settlements who rock cut houses and fair chimneys are still in habited. Unfortunately the village has not been spared from tourist development, which does spoil its character, with it's main street given over entirely to providing the tourist with souvenir shops, internet cafes, carpet shops and the always present tourist shops.

Once again, I find a comfortable place to sit on sofas and sip chai. This time I am joined by Willie, Hulya, Robert and Nigel. Sitting down and relaxing feels surreal. It has been such a long time since I had the luxury to stop for a moment and enjoy some relaxed banter. I almost feel guilty.

I said, "almost feel guilty, not guilty!"

This evening, even the Kitchen team take a well deserved rest, and after physiotherapy and Mass we all head towards the town centre where we are to have dinner which includes belly dancing and whirling dervishes. The practice of Sufi whirling is a twirling mediation that originated amongst the Turkish Sufis and which is still practiced by the Dervishes of the Mevlevi order. The ritual's aim is for the dervishes to try to desert their nefs', egos or personal, bad, desires by listening to their master and Sufi music, thinking about God. Although the food was that which is generally expected from a tourist trap and which left most of us trying to find the food on the plate, the whirling dervishes were the highlight of the evening!

Around 1030pm I limp back to the accommodation. I make sure my bike is ready for tomorrow and then set off to find a room, with a bathroom, far away from the madding snoring crowd. We don't' know what to expect tomorrow as the route hasn't been planned but if Lifecycle lives up to its reputation it will definitely not be an easy day!

All photos, unless otherwise stated, courtesy of Maria Vella-Galea